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October 2019

Issue: October 2019

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Welcome to a world of travel, entertainment and culture, curated from a global collective of writers, photojournalists and artists. Each article of our award-winning magazine is sure to inspire, no matter which of our destinations you call home.
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Travel to Rome


Amid the olive groves

1 October 2019

This farmhouse conversion retains a distinctly Puglian charm.

Time is clearly delineated in Southern Italy, Puglia being no exception. Mornings are for work: espresso is thrown down standing at countertops; conversation is staccato. Re-laxation comes a little later – irrespective of tourists used to 24-hour conveniences.

Shops shutter, streets empty and the only sounds are the odd church bell, and the hum of packed beaches along the Adriatic. It stands to reason that one should adjust ac-cordingly and relax in local luxury.

Masseria Torre Maizza sits atop Italy’s heel, in classically Puglian countryside. Re-cently purchased by hotel brand Roccoforte, the 16th-Century property has been refur-bished with traditional values in mind.

The masseria – ‘farm’ in Italian – still embodies its agricultural heritage, with whitewashed tufo walls and hanging vines .

Indeed, walking through the property, the most arresting feature is its scent. Briny olive trees punctuate their sweet orange and fig counterparts, a touch of zest added by an out-crop of lemon trees – overlaid by heady rose-mary and lavender plants that ring the pool.

Forty rooms and suites have been decorat-ed with a simple, almost rustic hand to com-plement their idyllic surroundings. Four have their own pools, and most contain a small private garden with sunloungers. For dining, chef Pierangelini’s artful menus are served by candlelight in the vaulted dining room or open-air in the gardens, under the stone col-onnade framing the 20-metre pool.

The curation of an atmosphere is clear: whether it be from the no-phone rule in-stilled pool-side, or the guest musicians, whose sounds drift across the masseria in a summer’s evening. After reading the papers over a breakfast of local tomatoes and cheese, guests may borrow a bicycle to cruise around the private villas in the area, or a set of clubs for a round at the on-site golf course. Or, simply sit by the stone-col-umned pool and indulge in la dolce far niente – a worthy pursuit in Southern Italy.

Words: Georgina Lavers