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August 2019

Issue: August 2019

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Welcome to a world of travel, entertainment and culture, curated from a global collective of writers, photojournalists and artists. Each article of our award-winning magazine is sure to inspire, no matter which of our destinations you call home.
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Resort relaxation in Amman

1 August 2019

Jordan’s capital becomes more alluring with this detail-orientated stay

It’s hard to miss the Four Seasons Amman. A white limestone landmark, it sits atop the tallest of the capital’s seven hills, just off the city’s fifth circle. At 15 storeys high, it provides sweeping views of the wider city, which itself offers far more to travellers than initial impressions would suggest.

Don’t let the allure of Jordan’s wider attractions dissuade you from spending time in Amman. It too has its fair share of destinations. There’s the ancient Citadel, with its Temple of Hercules and Umayyad Palace, and the 6,000-seat Roman Theatre located just off Hashemite Plaza. Throw in the fashionable neighbourhood of Weibdeh, the cultural delights of Darat Al Funun, the falafel at Hashem in Downtown, the allure of Rainbow Street, and the tea and coffee at Rumi Cafe and you’ll begin to understand Amman’s subtle appeal.

All of which is complemented memorably by the Four Seasons. As with other outposts of the brand, it’s the small details that make a difference. The handwritten welcome note; the generosity of the staff; the fluffiness of the pillows; and the small wooden tray of locally-grown, in-season strawberries and jam delivered to our room.

Like all of the hotel’s 192 guest rooms, ours is decorated in a contemporary residential style. There are Bulgari bathroom products, down duvets, and thick terrycloth bathrobes. Downstairs has a variety of dining venues, including the French brasserie La Capitale and the Levantine cuisine of Olea, and there’s also a spa to unwind in.

It’s the Four Seasons’ two pools that prove most memorable. During a hot Jordanian summer, they provide a resort-style relaxation rare to find in a city centre.

Three dining picks

No trip to Amman would be complete without a late-night trip to Reem, a small but legendary shawarma joint located next to the city’s second circle. No tables, no chairs – just the best beef shawarma in town.

Abu Jbara
Another stone-cold classic, Abu Jbara serves everything you can dip a piece of Arabic bread into. Hummus with pine nuts, fatteh with olive oil, foul with homemade ghee. A hugely popular and rewarding experience.

A family-run restaurant in the trendy Weibdeh neighbourhood, Chapters may be small in size but packs a hefty culinary punch. Serving authentic homemade cuisine, try the rummaneyye: a mouthwatering dish of lentils, aubergine and pomegranate molasses.

Words: Iain Akerman